Cider in the Markthalle Neun in Berlin + Danish cider at Rødder (tasting notes)

Recently, I have visited my favourite market hall/food court in Berlin, The Markthalle Neun. The Markthalle Neun is enormously popular among locals, fresh Berliners and visitors from around the globe craving for high-quality tasty and unique food and drinks at quite reasonable prices. Actually, I don’t remember when was the last time I was there, it must have been around a year ago, so I’ve decided to check if any of the shops/stalls started offering any new cider or perhaps a cider I haven’t sampled yet. During my last visit to the Markthalle Neun I’ve come across a French cidre from Kerné (to read the review click here) at Monsieur Collard, Lulu de Mere Cidre, which sounds French, but I think it comes from Germany (I’m not sure about it though) at Comptoir du Cidre, and a Spanish mainstream sidra Manzanova. Monsieur Collard still has Kerné on offer, Comptoir du Cidre only occasionally participate in the Street Food Thursday serving a delicious cidre steak (at least they used to) and a Spanish shop offering Manzanova seems to be no longer in business.

Luckily, two new cider spots have opened in the Markthalle Neun. The first one is Schaufenster Uckermark selling a range of delicious Apfelwein from Kelterei Gutshof Kraatz, which is based in Uckermark (read my past reviews on their Wilde Kerle and Apfelglühwein). Unfortunately, the shop was closed at the time of my visit but I saw a few bottles of various Gutshof Kraatz’s Apfelweins through the window. Judging by the half-empty bottles of Gutshof Kraatz’ Apfelwein in the fridge they sell also Apfelwein by glasses. I’ll grab a glass of the delicious Wilde Kerle next time I’m around.

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What a pleasant surprise it was, when I discovered Rødder, a Danish stall offering Smørrebrød, and wild danish cider from two cider makers, Æblerov and Olsens Frugt. Since I haven’t had any Danish cider in my life I just couldn’t wait to give them a try! A 750ml bottle is sold at approx. 20 EUR, but fortunately you can also purchase a wine glass at 4.50-5 EUR. A good option for those who want to try every cider from their cider selection.

img_8954In addition, at Rødder they always have one Danish cider on draught from Æblerov. In terms of food, I haven’t tried anything as all herring was already sold out, but I heard oohing and aahing of folks, who have decided to order other snacks. Hopefully, I’ll get the herring next time. Back to cider, I have sampled three ciders out of the range presented on the right, Cider from Olsens, and Prendila Cosi the Cox + Cider from Æblerov. Also, I’ve purchased a bottle of the Benene På Nakken to try at home. Scroll down for my tasting notes.

img_8969Olsens Cider 2015 (ABV 7.4%; 4.5 EUR per glass)

This one is a blend of Guldborg, Discovery, Purpurella, Bramley, Filippa, Ingrid Marie coming from organic orchards around Roskilde, Denmark. Appearance: cloudy, pale golden, slightly sparkling. Low body. Aroma: dry and acidic with notes of ripe and fermented yellow apples, raspberry and nail polish.  Taste: only slightly sweet, a watery note, medium lemon-like acidity, ripe yellow apple, fermented apples, raspberry, nail polish on the palate and light astringent taste. Finishes dry with a touch of apple-seed bitterness. Overall: tastes surprisingly nice and light at the same time. It’s dry just the way I like it with medium acidity and pleasant apple flavours. The flavour of nail polish is not too strong, adding complexity. A nice drinkable pour. 4/6

img_8968Æblerov Prendila Cosi 2016 (ABV 5.9%; (ABV 7.4%; 5 EUR per glass)

Aeblerov is created by Morten and Christopher, who also use organic apples from Danish orchards to make their award-winning ciders. Prendila Cosi is the title of a song by Lucio Battisti, which means in Italian ‘take it as it is’. What a splendid name for a wild cider! Appearance: cloudy, pale golden with raspberry hues, lightly sparkling. Low body. Aroma: weak, fermented apples, light nail polish and raspberry. Taste: dry with medium to high acidity. Crisp apple, lemon, a watery taste, raspberry, a low astringent taste and light vinegar. Finishes dry with a lingering chalky and fruity taste. Leaves a light burning sensation. Overall: a decent light drop. Personally, I enjoyed the Prendila Cosi but this one is not going to be everyone’s liking due to relatively high acidity and off notes of nail polish and vinegar. Pity that the aroma is not any stronger. 4/6

Æblerov Cox + Cider Aebler 2016 (ABV 5.9%; (ABV 7.4%; 5 EUR per glass, from tap)

img_8967Cox + Cider Aebler is a blend of 50% Holsteiner Cox and 50% other apple varieties. It was created for the famous Noma in Copenhagen, one of the greatest restaurants in the world run by René Redzepi. Appearance: cloudy, golden with orange hues, lightly sparkling. Medium body. Aroma: wild with notes of nail polish and vinegar, lemon, raspberry and fermented apples. Taste: dry with high acetic and lemon-like acidity. Fermented apples, funk, raspberry, medium astringent taste, blood orange, grapefruit-like bitterness in the aftertaste. Finishes dry with a lingering chalky, refreshing citrusy notes and a hint of sauerkraut. Overall: Cox+Cider Aebler tastes actually like a Spanish sidra with high acetic acidity and refreshing notes of grapefruit and blood orange. It was very much to my liking, but I think that again, this is not a cider for everyone. But if you like Spanish sidra, this cider will be for you. 4.5/6

In summary, it was my first acquaintance with Danish cider and I’m not disappointed. All sampled ciders from two Danish cider producers tasted nice, were balanced, yet tasted quite similar, wild with notes of nail polish, high dryness and high acidity. My favourite was definitely the last one, the Cox+Cider Aebler 2016 from Æblerov as it was the most complex of those I’ve tried and because it reminded me of Spanish sidra with high acidity, along with acetic and citrus notes. For sure, it wasn’t, my last visit at Rødder in the Markthalle Neun in Berlin. Also, I still have to try the Alkmene from Æblerov, and as announced earlier, Rødder’s herring.

 

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St Pauls Sacrifice​

St. Pauls Cidery is a micro cidery from St. Pauls, Bristol, UK. They have a range of ciders with devilish-sounding names such as Lucifer, Pagan or Sacrifice. I’ve been looking forward to trying one of their ciders for a while now. It’s time to sample the Sacrifice.Company: St Pauls Cidery
Place of Origin: Bristol, UK
Apples: unknown
Sweetness as per label: dry
ABV: 8%
Package type: 500ml amber glass with crown cap
Recommended type of glass: pint glass, chalice glass or white wine

Appearance: pours a cloudy pale golden. No visible carbonation. Body is low.

Aroma/Nose: the aroma is sweetish with notes of sulphur (matches-like), yellow apple, pineapple, apple seeds with a hint of nail polish

Taste: the first sip is dry with some residual sweetness to it. No detectable acidity. On the mid-palate a flavour of white wine, canned pineapple juice, toffee, yellow apples, a hint of pear, watery flavour leading to a biting booze finish with a plain bitter flavour. No tannins detectable.

Overall: I wish I could give a better rating but the Sacrifice tastes really terrible. To give you a better picture, it’s like drinking a badly mixed cocktail made with pineapple juice, vodka and some apple juice, which has the alcohol content way out of proportion. So now you can imagine that it wasn’t exactly a pleasant drinking experience. I have the impression that the Sacrifice is a cider made mainly from dessert apples and sat too long on its lees giving the bitter off flavour. I wouldn’t buy it again. 2/6 

Availability: from their online shop. Through Brewers Droop, Better Food stores in Bristol. At Harvest Bath in Bath.

Price: came with my Orchard Box.

Gutshof Kraatz Apfelglühwein

It’s freezing outside so the best way to warm up is to drink Apfelglühwein! Apfelglühwein means mulled/spiced cider or apple wine in German. And, mulled/spiced cider is obviously mulled with traditional spices such as cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, cardamon, star anise, allspice, ginger or bay leaves. Sometimes even with orange or lemon to add some tangy twist. Florian from Gutshof Kraatz has crafted his own Apfelglühwein so all you have to do is heat the cider, enjoy it and relax. Company: Kelterei Gutshof Kraatz
Place of Origin: Nordwestuckermark-Kraatz, Germany
Ingredients: Apfelwein and apple juice made from apples coming from local orchards and gardens, sugar, honey, spices (star anise, cinnamon, cloves)
ABV: 6%
Package type:
750ml clear glass wine bottle with screw cap
Recommended type of glass: ceramic, porcelain or glass mug
Way to serve: bring to a simmer, but don’t boil. You can add extra sugar or honey if desired.

Appearance: pours a hazy clear golden with no head. No carbonation. Body is low. Sediment in the bottle.

Aroma/Nose: the nose exhibits notes of cloves, cinnamon, crisp apple and pear. It smells like a marinade that is used for spiced pickled pear. Except, there is no vinegar note.

Taste: it starts moderately sweet with medium acidity. Then the taste moves to red and yellow apples, cinnamon, cloves, crisp apple, apple juice and a gentle astringent taste. It ends with a lingering flavour of spices with a note of apple juice, baked apples and a hint of bitterness.

Overall: usually cider used for mulled cider is of poor quality as the spices cover all the cider faults so there is no need to use anything better. But you can’t say this about the Apfelglühwein from Gutshof Kraatz. Flavour of spices and Apfelwein are in perfect balance with each other not dominating over another. So you can tell that Apfelwein used by Florian is of good quality giving a lovely lingering flavour of crisp and baked apples. I shared the bottle with a friend and my friend loved it. So did I. This Apfelglühwein warms you up and provides drinking pleasure at the same time. I loved it and would drink it again. 5/6

Note: At first, I’ve tried the Apfelglühwein at room temperature and it tasted less crisp, but when the temperature increased, the level of acidity increased as well. So you might want to add some sugar or honey if you like your cider sweet or to balance out the acidity.

Availability: from their online shop. In Frankfurt from Apfelweinkontor and Apfelweinhandlung. In Berlin from Schaufenster Uckermark located in Markthalle Neun. In Poland through Vinoteka in Szczecin.

Price: sample was provided to me by Florian from Kelterei Gutshof Kraatz

Manufaktura Cydru Scrumpy

Looks like I am one of the 120 cider lovers lucky to try the Scrumpy, a limited edition cider from Manufaktura Cydru as only 120 bottles of this cider were produced. Scrumpy is a rough cider traditionally produced in West England from dried or withered apples, usually unfiltered and with a natural sparkle. I wonder how a Polish version of this cider may taste like.
Company: Manufaktura Cydru
Place of Origin: Podolszyn, Masovia, Poland
Apples: 
unknown 
ABV:
4.5%
Package type: 
750ml green glass bottle with crown cap
Recommended type of glass: chalice glass, white wine glass, snifter, pint glass

Appearance: pours a clear straw yellow with no head and petillant carbonation. Body is low.

Aroma/Nose: the nose is very fruity and acidic at the same time with notes of crisp yellow apple, green apple, green pear, lemon, a light vinous note and funk.

Taste: it starts dry with medium to high lemon-like acidity. Then it moves to a note of lemon juice, green apple, yellow apple, herbal notes and funk. Aftertaste is dry with notes of lemon juice, a distant hint of apple-seed bitterness and a lingering fruit tingle acidity on the finish.

Overall: It’s surely not a cider for an average Polish consumer who drinks sweet mainstream ciders. And, definitely not a cider to start your cider journey with due to funky flavours both on the nose and on the palate and a relatively high acidity. This is a cider for a connoisseur, who can appreciate fruity and citrusy flavours rounded up by funky notes. Also, there are a delightful fruitiness, refreshing apple taste and depth of flavours, which complete a beautiful cider. Dorota, your Scrumpy tastes amazing. Congrats! 5/6

Availability: I saw two bottles of the Scrumpy at Chmielołak at 25PLN in Warsaw during my recent visit there. So hurry up! They might be gone by now.

Price: Scrumpy was provided to me by Dorota from Manufaktura Cydru for testing.

Dupont Cidre Bouché 2015

Cidre Bouché is the most widely available cider from one the finest cider makers in Normandy, France, Domaine Dupont. Bouché is produced using the traditional method of the Pays d’Auge. Manually picked apples are pressed, subsequently, the juice is fermented with wild yeast. Fermentation is slowed down by multiple racking to retain flavour and sweetness. The last step is bottling, which occurs between March and April.

This is my 2nd cider from Dupont reviewed here. I have previously sampled the Organic Bouché Brut 2011.
Company: 
CALVADOS DUPONT Domaine Familial Louis Dupont 
Place of Origin: Victot-Pontfol, Normandy, France
Apples: 70% of bittersweet apples, 30% of acid apples
ABV: 5.5%
Package type: 330ml clear bottle with screw cap
Recommended type of glass: wine glass or pint glass

Appearance: pours an almost clear golden with orange hues. Slightly sparkling. Light to medium body. Some sediment in the bottle.

Aroma/Nose: the nose exhibits notes of red apple, yellow crisp fresh apple, fermented apples, red berries and oak. Underlying notes of caramel with funk round up the aroma.

Taste: the first sip has low to medium sweetness and low lemon-like acidity, followed by a very light watery taste, a smoky note (but only in the beginning), caramel, light burnt caramel, baked apples, and a touch of funk. The finish is dry with a lingering note of a crisp red apple (like biting into a fresh apple), low astringent taste and a touch of burnt caramel.

Overall: Dupont’s Bouche has an extreme depth and length of flavours including notes of funk and sulphur that at higher concentrations could be considered as disturbing. It’s like with perfume, high concentrations of specific compounds are unpleasant but low concentrations produce a glorious scent. This is exactly what is happening here. Hints of funk and sulphur balance on the edge adding complexity to apple, caramel and lemon notes, showing craftsmanship of cider maker. And, make this cider simply irresistible.  A cidre to fell in love with. 5/6

Availability: locally in Berlin in the Muted Horn. In Germany online through Vivino and Wine and Waters. Locally in Amsterdam and online in the Netherlands from Appels en Peren. In Belgium online from Bieres Gourmet. In Norway from Vinmonopolet. In Switzerland from Globus. Online in Denmark from Holm Cider and Godevine. In France online from Made in Calvados.

Price: bought locally in the Muted Horn in Berlin at 4.8 EUR.

De vergeten Appel t’Gouverneurtje 2016

‘t Gouverneurtje 2016 is the last cider from De vergeten Appel that I have received for testing. And, it makes me a bit sad because I actually did enjoy having them all in a way. They all tasted apple forward and refreshing. Anyway, it looks that Johan’s business is growing and his cider gaining popularity in the Netherlands since De vergeten Appel have been recently looking for new facilities to increase their cider production. I wish Johan good luck in his cider endeavours!

‘t Gouverneurtje 2016 is made from apples coming from Gouverneurshuis in Heusden.
Company: 
De Vergeten Appel
Place of Origin: Tilburg, North Brabant, Netherlands
Apples: made from apples coming from Gouverneurshuis in Heusden
ABV: 5.2%
Package type: 375ml green champagne bottle with crown cork
Recommended type of glass: flute, chalice glass or wine glass

Appearance: pours a cloudy pale golden and a huge white fizzy head that quickly dissipates. Medium, natural carbonation. Body is low. Sediment in the bottle.

Aroma/Nose: the aroma is very refreshing and vinous with notes of green and yellow apples. I can also get a weak note of sulphur and sweet juicy ripe apple and overripe apples. Lightly bitter-sweet with notes of apple seeds.

Taste: it begins bone dry with medium to high lemon-like acidity. On the mid-palate notes of overripe yellow apple, lemon, white wine with a hint of green apple and earth. Barely detectable low astringent taste. Very light bitterness in the aftertaste with a  lingering flavour of overripe yellow apples and a minimally astringent taste.

Overall: I always look forward to trying a new cider from De vergeten Appel as I know that Johan’s cider will taste refreshing and apple forward as mentioned earlier. Also, t’Gouverneurtje 2016 didn’t disappoint me. It tastes dry, slightly vinous with a lingering appley aftertaste. To give you a better picture, t’Gouverneurtje 2016 tastes like a cross between Prosecco and German Apfelwein with a nice breadth of fruity flavours. Perhaps this is not a cider for every palate due to high dryness and acidity, but I enjoyed it. Well done, Mr. Holleman. I’m looking forward to your cider next year! 4.5/6

Availability: locally in Rotterdam at Fenix Food Factory, in Amsterdam from Apples en Perren

Price: t’Gouverneurtje 2016 was kindly provided to me by Johan from De vergeten Appel for testing.

Andreas Schneider/Obsthof am Steinberg Goldparmäne Alte Bäume 2014

Imagine an apple orchard with over hundred different, mainly old and rare apple varieties, where over fifty of them are used for the production of a fine Apfelwein, which is even served in Michelin-starred restaurants. Would you like to try such Apfelwein? Who wouldn’t! Today I have the pleasure of sampling the Goldparmäne Alte Bäume 2014 produced by Andreas Schneider of Obsthof am Steinberg in Nieder-Erlenbach, Hesse, Germany.Company: Andreas Schneider/Obsthof am Steinberg
Place of Origin: Frankfurt / Nieder-Erlenbach, Hesse, Germany
Apples: single varietal from organic King of the Pippins
ABV: 5%
Package type: 750ml green glass bottle with screw cap
Recommended type of glass: white wine glass

Appearance: pours a clear deep golden with no head. No carbonation. Body is medium.

Aroma/Nose: a beautiful bouquet with an array of overripe and fermented apples, apricot and wood with gentle funky notes of barnyard and leather. The nose makes me think of French cidre. Very inviting.

Taste: it starts moderately sweet with medium lemon-like acidity. The mid-palate has notes of caramel, apricot, red ripe apples, some smokiness and a gentle oaky taste with a moderate astringency on the tongue. The aftertaste has apricots, a gentle white wine note and a hint of grapefruit-like bitterness.

Overall: It’s hard to believe that this is a single varietal Apfelwein. It’s so rich and wonderfully balanced. The nose reminds me of French Cidre, but the taste apart from Cidre also has notes typical of English style cider, so it tastes like a meeting of English and French cider. Andreas squeezed out every drop and every possible taste of this apple variety. Really amazing! What I found surprising is that the Goldparmäne has no bitterness typical for this apple variety. Summarizing, the Goldparmäne is a sophisticated, but still easily drinkable Apfelwein that can be served instead of dessert wine. It could be slightly less sweet though, but it’s my personal preference. 5/6

Availability: at their farm and from Apfelweinkontor.

Price: purchased online from Apfelweinkontor at 12.50 EUR.